SpringMarch - May
The quietest useful season. The indoor attractions are open, the Old Town is walkable without queuing, and Dreamland is on reduced weekend-and-holiday operation rather than daily, so check before you build a day around it.
Spring is when Margate is easiest to actually see. The Old Town lanes off Market Place are busy on a summer Saturday to the point where you shuffle; in April you can stand still in them. Turner Contemporary is free and open Tuesday to Sunday all year, which makes it the reliable wet-afternoon plan, and the Shell Grotto is on its Wednesday to Sunday winter pattern until the summer daily season starts. Dreamland is the one to check: the park runs weekends and school holidays outside the peak, and its hours shift when there is an outdoor gig on. The sea is still cold enough in spring that the Walpole Bay tidal pool is a swim for people who own a wetsuit or are very committed.
SummerJune - August
Peak, and Margate does peak properly. Main Sands fills, the trains from St Pancras run busy both ways on a hot Saturday, and the Old Town restaurants need booking days ahead. This is also when the town is most itself.
July and August are when Margate earns the description that annoys half the town and delights the other half. Main Sands is a genuine sandy beach right in front of the station end of the seafront, and on a hot weekend it is full. The Harbour Arm bars run late, Dreamland puts on outdoor gigs that change the park's own opening hours, and Margate Pride takes over the seafront in early August. Book restaurant tables. Angela's, Sargasso and Bottega Caruso are all small rooms and all of them fill. If you want the beach without the crowd, walk east past the Winter Gardens to Walpole Bay, where the tidal pool holds water at low tide and the crowd thins out sharply after the first bay.
AutumnSeptember - November
The best light of the year on a north-facing coast, the Margate Bookie in October, and the town back to a local rhythm. Sea temperature peaks in early autumn, so this is the sensible swimming season.
Autumn is the Margate that people who live here would pick. The sunsets that Turner came for are at their most reliable from September onward, the sea is at its warmest of the year in early September rather than in July, and the Old Town stops shuffling. The Margate Bookie, the town's literary festival, runs in October and is the anchor event of the season. The chalk stacks along the coast east of town are better in autumn than summer, partly for the light and partly because you can walk the sand between Palm Bay and Botany Bay without weaving around windbreaks. Check the tide before you set off on that one, because the bays cut off.
WinterDecember - February
Short days, real wind off the North Sea, and a lot of the seasonal trade shut. The free indoor attractions and the pubs carry the season. Dreamland is not a winter proposition.
Winter strips the town back to the people who live here, and it is a genuinely bracing place to be. The wind comes straight off the North Sea with the whole of the Thames Estuary and no shelter, and the seafront is not a stroll in January. What works: Turner Contemporary, free and warm and open Tuesday to Sunday; Margate Caves, open daily and underground, so weather is irrelevant; the Shell Grotto on its Wednesday to Sunday pattern; and the Old Town pubs, which is where the town actually spends the winter. Expect reduced hours and some outright seasonal closures among the independents, and expect Dreamland to be shut or on a very limited events-only footing. Check anything before you travel for it.