SpringMarch - May
Everything reopens. Southwold Museum starts its 2pm to 4pm daily season on 1 April, the Walberswick ferry returns to a daily 10am to 5pm service from 30 March, and the Arts Festival takes the early May bank holiday weekend.
Spring is when Southwold switches back on. The museum on Victoria Street opens daily from 1 April, 2pm to 4pm, and closes again at the end of October, so it is genuinely a seasonal thing rather than a year-round backstop. The hand-rowed ferry across the Blyth resumes daily service on 30 March, which reopens the walk to Walberswick without the long road detour. The Arts Festival takes the early May bank holiday weekend across the Arts Centre and St Edmund's Church. Buss Creek and the Town Marshes on the northern edge are at their best in April and May, when the sedge and reed warblers arrive and the reedbeds get loud; it is five minutes from the High Street and almost nobody walks it. The wind still has the North Sea in it, so the seafront is colder than the inland forecast suggests.
SummerJune - August
Peak season, and there is one road in over Mights Bridge. Arrive before 10am for a car park space, book Adnams tours and Sutherland House well ahead, and expect a queue at the chip shop in August.
July and August are when Southwold's population multiplies and the single approach road over Mights Bridge shows its limits. Park once, in the 335-space pay and display at the pier or at Harbour Quay East for the harbour end, and then leave the car alone; the town is twenty minutes end to end on foot. Book the Adnams brewery, distillery and lighthouse tours before you travel, because they sell out, and book Sutherland House if you want dinner there at all, since it runs fixed 6.30pm and 7pm sittings and takes only tables of two online. The Little Fish and Chip Shop stops taking pre-orders during the school holidays, so the queue is the queue. The rowed ferry runs daily 10am to 5pm and is the best five minutes of the season, weather permitting. The Food and Drink Festival takes Gun Hill in late July and the Constitutional Club's beer festival closes the season over the August bank holiday.
AutumnSeptember - November
The town empties and becomes itself again. Seawatching from the pier in an onshore blow, the Adnams 10k on 22 November, and the Christmas lights switch-on on 28 November.
Autumn is the best value time to come. The car parks have space, the pubs have seats, and the town stops performing. The beach faces due east, so an onshore autumn blow makes the pier and Gun Hill workable seawatching points, and the tidal mud of the Blyth between Blackshore and the footbridge feeds waders at low water. Two dates anchor the season: the Adnams 10k on Sunday 22 November, two and a half laps from the Harbour Inn round the Common to a finish on South Green, and the Christmas lights switch-on on Saturday 28 November, with a High Street market from 2pm and the lights going on from the Town Hall balcony at 5pm. The museum closes at the end of October, but the Sailors' Reading Room stays open 9am to 5pm every day.
WinterDecember - February
Cold, exposed and largely local. The museum is shut until April and the ferry runs weekends only, so build the day around indoor things: the Reading Room, the pier's machines, and an Adnams tour.
Winter here is honest. Southwold faces due east into the North Sea with a low cliff and no shelter at all, and Gun Hill in January is the coldest corner of the town. The museum is closed until 1 April and the Walberswick ferry drops to weekends only outside its 30 March to 1 November season, so plan indoors: the Sailors' Reading Room is open 9am to 5pm every day except Christmas Day and Boxing Day and costs nothing, the Under the Pier Show works in any weather unless the wind is high enough to close it, and the Adnams brewery and distillery tours run through the year. The Crown and the Sole Bay Inn are the two rooms to be in when it is blowing. On Christmas morning the Rotary Club of Blyth Valley runs a charity swim off the beach below Gun Hill, registration 09.30, start 10.30, which is a spectator sport for most sensible people.