SpringMarch - May
The tail end of the Six Nations runs into March, and Bute Park's cherry blossom and wild garlic make the Taff walk the best free thing in the city.
Early spring in Cardiff still belongs to the rugby: the last Six Nations home fixtures usually land in late February and March, and on those Saturdays the city centre is a single, good-natured crowd from late morning. Book a table or a bed well ahead if your visit lines up with a fixture, or aim for a non-match weekend and enjoy a much quieter castle and market. From April the payoff moves outdoors: Bute Park's arboretum comes into leaf, the riverside stretch of the Taff Trail fills with blossom, and the water bus restarts a fuller timetable between the castle and the Bay. Check fixture dates on the Principality Stadium site before you book anything.
SummerJune - August
Concert season inside the castle walls, pedalos on Roath Park lake, and the barrage walk to Penarth at its best.
Summer moves Cardiff outdoors. The castle grounds host the Depot Live concert season from early June to mid August, which is great if you have tickets and worth knowing about if you do not, since the castle closes early on show days; check the castle's website before planning an afternoon visit. The Bay is at its best now: the barrage walk across to Penarth catches the breeze off the Severn Estuary, the water bus runs its fullest schedule, and Roath Park's rowing boats and pedalos come out on the lake beneath the Scott Memorial lighthouse. Evenings are long enough to fit the arcades and market by day and a waterfront table at the Bay after.
AutumnSeptember - November
The Cardiff Half takes over the streets in early October, Sŵn fills the Womanby Street venues mid-month, and the autumn rugby internationals begin.
Autumn is Cardiff's densest events season. The Cardiff Half Marathon closes the city-centre roads on a Sunday in early October, with 25,000-plus runners passing the castle and the Bay; brilliant to watch, awkward to drive through, so check the date if you are arriving that weekend. A fortnight later the Sŵn music festival, co-founded by Huw Stephens, packs the small venues around Womanby Street across three nights. From late October into November the autumn rugby internationals bring match-day Cardiff back to life, and the museums earn their keep on wet afternoons: the National Museum's Impressionist rooms and free entry make it the best rainy-day hour in Wales.
WinterDecember - February
The Christmas market stalls run down the Hayes from mid November, the arcades do their best trade of the year, and the Six Nations looms in February.
Cardiff in winter is an indoor city that does indoors well. The Christmas market runs along the Hayes and St John Street from mid November to the 23rd of December, and the arcades around it, glass-roofed and dry, are the sensible way to do Christmas shopping in Welsh weather. The market and museums carry the daytime; the pubs around Quay Street and Womanby Street carry the evenings. By late January the city starts building toward the Six Nations, and the first home fixture in February is the loudest day of the Cardiff year: 73,931 inside the stadium and what feels like as many again singing in the streets around it. Book accommodation months ahead for those weekends, or avoid them entirely and have the city to yourself.