SpringMarch - May
The gardens come back to life from April and the coach season has not properly started; Knocksink is at its best before the leaf canopy closes over.
Spring is the sensible time to do Powerscourt. The Walled Garden goes over to tulips, the beech avenues come into leaf, the terraces photograph well in the clearer light, and the queues at the ticket desk are a fraction of what they will be in July. Knocksink Wood below the village is worth doing in April and early May specifically, before the canopy closes over, when you can actually see the shape of the ravine and the springs on the valley sides. The Great Sugar Loaf dries out from about the same point, and a clear spring morning on the summit gives you Bray Head, the sea and the whole demesne in one turn. Be honest about the ground: the higher trails and the Crone Wood loop hold water well into April, so this is still a boots season rather than a trainers one. Powerscourt Waterfall runs hard in spring after winter rain, which is when it looks its best.
SummerJune - August
Peak day-trip season. The Square fills by mid-morning on fine weekends, and the waterfall's long evening opening is the way to dodge it.
June to August is Enniskerry at its busiest and it is worth planning around rather than pretending otherwise. The village is half an hour from Dublin, it is on the standard Wicklow coach circuit, and the Square, which doubles as the car park, fills by mid-morning on any fine weekend. Two moves change the day. The first is timing: Poppies opens at seven, the gardens at half nine, and the first hour at either is a completely different experience from the middle of the day. The second is the waterfall, which has a long summer opening with last admission at six in the evening, a meadow with picnic tables and free barbecue stands, and a habit of emptying out after four when the day-trip traffic heads back up the N11. Book a table at Emilia's or the Enniskerry Inn for a Saturday night rather than turning up.
AutumnSeptember - November
The demesne beeches turn, Knocksink is at its best, the coach numbers drop away sharply from September, and the village market runs once a month on the Square.
Autumn is the best trade Enniskerry offers. The coach traffic thins from September, the beech avenues and specimen trees on the demesne turn properly, and the oak and birch in the Knocksink ravine go copper over the river, which is when that walk earns its reputation. The Crone Wood and Maulin loop is at its finest in October, with clear air, low light on the waterfall from Ride Rock and the bracken turning on the open ground, though the days shorten fast and the upper section is no place to be at dusk. If you want the waterfall itself rather than the view of it from above, the gate runs 10.30am to 5.30pm in September and October, with last admission half an hour before closing, so it is a morning or early afternoon job by then. This is also when the indoor options start to matter: the Powerscourt Distillery tour runs year round and finishes on three whiskeys, which is a better use of a wet October afternoon than a walk you will not enjoy. The village settles too, and the Enniskerry Inn's kitchen through the afternoon is a genuinely useful thing to know once the demesne cafes shut at five. The village market at the Schoolhouse for Art runs once a month from 11am to 5pm and is worth timing a visit around, though the date moves from month to month, so check enniskerry.ie rather than assuming a fixed weekend.
WinterDecember - February
The quietest and most honest version of the village. Powerscourt Waterfall runs 10.30am to 4pm from November to February and closes from 11 to 25 December; the gardens and the distillery stay open.
Winter is Enniskerry with the visitors subtracted, and it is the version that tells you what the place actually is. The gardens stay open through the season, closing only on Christmas Day and St Stephen's Day, and the bare structure of the Italian terraces with the Sugar Loaf behind them is arguably a better piece of design without the planting. The distillery keeps its hours. Made in Wicklow's craft trail takes over the state rooms at Powerscourt House from late January into early March, mostly free to walk into, and it is a much better reason to be at Powerscourt in February than the gardens alone. In the village, the Tidy Towns Christmas weekend in December brings a craft fair, a nativity procession and the lights on the Square, and it is a community event rather than a tourist one. The one real caution is Powerscourt Waterfall, which runs 10.30am to 4pm from November to February on the estate's own seasonal table, with last admission half an hour before closing, and shuts entirely from 11 to 25 December, reopening on 26 December at 10.30am. Do the drive out in the morning rather than after lunch. And treat the Glencree valley road and the Sally Gap as off limits in ice.