19 Grassmarket, Edinburgh, EH1 2HS
A tiny gelato and chocolate shop on the Grassmarket with a near-permanent queue, where Mary makes every batch of gelato and chocolate fresh each morning, so the daily flavour board changes and sells through. The house move is the hot chocolate float: a scoop of gelato dropped into thick hot chocolate, best consumed looking up at the Castle from the square. Hours shift seasonally (winter runs roughly Wed-Sun from 11am) and the queue closes fifteen minutes before the shop does; when the day's gelato is gone, it is gone.
Scotland's best-known cheesemonger, trading on Victoria Street since 1993: farmhouse-only cheese from single herds, expertly talked through.
Known for: Scottish farmhouse cheese, including Isle of Mull cheddar
Hours: Daily 10:00-18:00