Doolin Pier: ferries to the Aran Islands and the cliff cruise

Doolin is one of only three mainland ports for the Aran Islands, the others being Galway city and Rossaveal in Connemara, and it is also the launch point for the cliff cruise. The pier sits a short way out from the village, and on a summer day it is the busiest place in Doolin. Here is how the boats work and how to plan a day around them.

Which island

There are three Aran Islands, all reachable from Doolin, and they are very different in size. Inis Oirr (Inisheer) is the smallest and closest, about fifteen minutes across, and is the obvious choice for a day trip from Doolin: small enough to see properly on foot or by bike in a few hours, with stone walls, sandy beaches, a ruined castle on the hill and the rusting wreck of the Plassey on the shore. Inis Meain (Inishmaan) is the middle island, quieter and less visited, with a more limited service. Inis Mor (Inishmore) is the largest, home to the great clifftop fort of Dun Aonghasa, and is about 35 minutes out; it really wants a full day and is more commonly reached from Galway, but the Doolin boats serve it too. For most people doing the islands from Doolin, Inisheer is the right call.

The operator and the season

The ferries are run by the Doolin Ferry Company, the O'Brien family business based at the pier. A note on names, because it can be confusing: the old rival operator, Doolin2Aran Ferries, was sold to the O'Brien family, so what looks like several competing companies and websites at the pier is now effectively one operation sharing the same office and phone. The season runs roughly from late February to early November, with up to four sailings a day in summer and fewer in the shoulder months. Outside that window the boats stop for the winter, so the islands and the cruise are a do-it-while-you-can part of a Doolin trip.

Planning an island day

Take an early sailing to get the most time on the island, and check the return times before you go so you are not caught out, because the last boat back is the last boat back. On Inisheer you can walk the island, hire a bike near the pier, or take a pony-and-trap or minibus tour; a few hours covers it comfortably. Bring layers and rain gear whatever the morning looks like, since the weather can turn on the crossing, and bring some cash, as island facilities are limited. The islands are Gaeltacht, Irish-speaking, and a few words of Irish are appreciated. Some day-trip products bundle the crossing with a guided tour of the island, which is a good way to see it without planning every step yourself.

The cliff cruise

The same pier is where the Cliffs of Moher cruise leaves from. It is a separate, shorter trip, around 45 minutes to an hour, running south along the base of the cliffs rather than out to the islands. Plenty of people do both in a day, an island in the morning and the cruise in the afternoon, or combine a cruise with a clifftop walk. Like the ferries it is seasonal and weather-dependent.

Parking and the practical bits

The pier has two pay-and-display car parks run by Clare County Council, plus roadside spaces. The rates are modest, a euro for up to two hours and a few euro for the day, and there is a useful exception: vehicles carrying seven or more passengers park free. The car parks fill early on busy summer mornings when the ferries are going out, so arrive in good time. There are public toilets at the pier, including an accessible one, but little else, so pick up anything you need in the village first. And book your sailing ahead in peak season; the boats do sell out.

If the sea is rough

The boats do not run in bad weather, and the Atlantic here does not negotiate. If the forecast is poor, have a plan B in the village, the pubs and the music are always on, and Doolin Cave is a good wet-weather hour. Check the operator's sailings on the day rather than assuming the timetable holds.